Climb Prospectus
 Peak: Mt. St. Helens  Climb Grade: A  click here for Bivi site map
 Route: Monitor Ridge    click here for participant list
 Elevation: 8,365 ft.  summit date: May 11, 2003  

 

General information:
The first recorded ascent of this peak was in 1853. Mt. St Helens was known to the local Native Americans as Lawelatla (aka Loowit), or "Person from Whom Smoke Comes". Mt St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. St Helens is the lowest and youngest of Washington's five volcanic peaks. The unique low timberline elevation results from the recent eruptions and from the porous thick pumice soil. The peak lost 1,312 feet as a result of the famous May 18, 1980 eruption. The views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams from the summit can be spectacular. Be cautious of the cornices on the summit crater! This mountain is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak as serious as any in the Northwest.

References:
  • Maps:
    • USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA,
    • Green Trails, Mt St. Helens.
  • Books:
    • Selected Climbs in the Cascades, by Nelson and Potterfield,
    • Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass, by Fred Beckey
  • Web:
    • Gifford Pinchot NF web site: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/
    • St Helens Web cam: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm/volcanocam/
    • Volanoe web site http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/MSH/NatMonument/PointsInterest/climbers_bivouac.html

Meeting time and driving directions:
Carpooling is strongly encouraged. Please contact Marty by Friday and share your transportation plans.
Drive up I-5 north to Woodland WA. Take exit 21 and proceed east 23 miles on Hwy 503 to Jacks Restaurant/Store, about 5 miles west of the town of Cougar. There should be a sign on the main road for "Climbers Registration". That's the meeting spot. We will meet at Jack's at 6:00 pm on Saturday, May 10. Allow 1 ½ hours drive time from Portland; note that Hwy 503 has a lot of turns and deer crossings.

At Jacks you must purchase a climbing permit (one day $15 or season $30) and get a climbing pass for May 11th. This fee is non-refundable, but if you get the season pass it is also accepted on Mt. Adams. From Jacks, we'll carpool east three miles to dinner in Cougar at the Cougar Grill. Then, we'll drive about 6 miles east on 503 and turn left on Forest Road (FR) 83 toward the Ape Cave. Drive about three miles, and turn left on FR 81. Continue on FR 81 about 1.5 miles to the right turnoff to the climber's bivouac, on FR 830. Head up this road about 3.5 miles to the trailhead. You can camp here. We will begin our climb here. This road is usually free of snow after mid May. This early in the season, tire chains can be a good idea.

Roundtrip mileage from Portland is about 160 miles. A gas donation of $10 per person to a maximum of $40 per car, payable to the driver is appropriate. The most dangerous part of the trip may well be the drive home, so please carpool for safety and take a nap if you need to. There is a hotel in Cougar where you may want to stay the night (and get up to the Bivi sight by 6:30 am): the Lone Fir Resort, (360) 238-5210.

Permits / Fees (Trail, entrance, parking):
Between May 15 and October 31, (the main climbing season) there is a $15 climbing fee, and a quota of 100 climbers per day. Between April 1 and May 14, there is a $15 fee and no quota. Between Nov 1 and March 31, there is no quota and no climbing fee. (Climbers may also purchase an annual pass Cascade Volcanoes Pass for $30, good for climbing both Adams and St. Helens.) Snow park permit required (OR permits are okay) between Nov 15 and April 30.

Climbing Skills Required:
3rd class snow travel, ice axe and crampon use, and glissading. Anyone going on the climb must be in good condition. Those in poor shape may be turned back at the leader's discretion. If you have not climbed for awhile, you should get out your Freedom of the Hills book and review: Snow Travel / Climbing chapter

Approach, climb, and descent:
We will check equipment and try to leave the trailhead (elevation 3,740) by 6:30 am. We will be in the trees for about an hour, then emerge from timberline and start upwards, slow and steady. We'll take a 5 minute break every hour. Descent will be by the same route. The total ascent is approx. 4,600 feet. We will take between four and six hours to go up (depending on group speed). If the glissading is good, we'll come down in three hours.

After the climb:
Have some dry clothes and shoes to change into so you can be comfortable on the way home. It's always nice to have a cooler with cold liquid refreshment so that you can re-hydrate after the climb. If it's not too late, some of us might stop in Cougar for food before heading back (make sure you're in-sync with your carpool).

Cancellation:
Marty will monitor weather and avalanche forecasts, and the decision to cancel will be made in town on Saturday, May 10th no later than 2:00 pm. If you do not hear from Marty by this time, assume the climb is still on and meet at the location listed above.

We may start out on the climb in drizzle or snow if the outlook is for improving weather. We will not start out or continue climbing if there are approaching weather fronts or heavy precipitation, icing, high winds, or unsafe conditions.

 

 

Gear Checklist
Be packed and ready at the meeting time


Clothing
_X____ crampon compatible boots
_X____ gaiters
_X____ wool or polypropylene socks (# pairs ____ )
_X____ liner socks (# pairs ____ )
______ vapor barrier socks (or plastic bags)
______ underwear
_X____ thermal underwear top
_X____ thermal underwear bottom
_X____ fleece jacket or wool sweater
_X____ fleece or wool pants
_X____ Gore-Tex jacket (or other water-resistant material)
______ Gore-Tex pants/bibs (or other water-resistant material)
_X____ cheapo nylon pants for glissading (buy at thrift store/Goodwill)
_X____ mittens or gloves
_X____ thin liner gloves
_X____ hat with visor (for sun)
_X____ balaclava or stocking cap
______ fleece neck gaiter or scarf
_X____ nylon shorts
_X____ T-shirt

Sleeping
_X____ sleeping bag
_X____ sleeping pad
_X____ space blanket / groundcloth
______ parachute cord (for securing tent in snow, if sleeping on snow, leave stakes at home)
_X____ tent (share)
______ bivy bag

Food
_X____ breakfast(s) (# _1__ )
_X____ lunch(es) (# _1__ )
______ dinner(s) [coordinate with other party members] (# ____ )
______ carbohydrate or Gatorade-type mix for water
_X____ yummy leader treats!
______ bowl
______ insulated mug
______ spoon

10+ essentials
_X____ whistle
_X____ map of area
_X____ compass
_X____ headlamp/flashlight (with extra batteries and bulb)
_X____ extra food (Clif bar)
_X____ extra clothing (socks, gloves, hat)
_X____ sunglasses
_X____ sunscreen and lip protection
_X____ emergency mylar space blanket
_X____ pocket knife
_X____ matches/lighter in waterproof container and firestarter
_X____ first aid kit (absolutely no drugs or medicines that will make you drowsy or dizzy)

Other
_X____ watch (with alarm)
_X____ maps to trailhead (USFS maps and/or altas/gazeteer book are helpful)
_X____ small summit pack
______ electronics (ham transceivers / cell phone / two way radios / GPS)
______ photocopy of guidebook route description (laminated with clear shelving paper)
_X____ small ensolite foam sit pad
______ Mountain Locator Unit (aka MLU, Mt. Hood only)
______ goggles
______ toothbrush / toothpaste
______ plastic surveyor's tape (to mark route)
______ camp shoes (sport sandals or Aqua socks are good)
_X____ water bottle or water bladder (at least two quarts - fill them at home)
______ small thermos bottle
_X____ ski poles (great for long snow routes)
______ instant heat packets (buy at hardware or outdoor store)
______ two AA Batteries for avalanche transceiver
______ avalanche transceiver
_X____ handkerchief / bandanna (drippy noses are a drag)
_X____ large heavy duty garbage bag (pack cover, emergency rain gear, glissade device)
_X____ toilet paper (Blue Bags - If it's solid; you pack it down)
_X____ camera
______ film
_X____ clean clothes, comfy shoes (and deodorant?) for drive home
_X____ post-climb munchies (salty stuff and malted beverages are nice)

Climbing Gear
______ helmet
______ climbing harness (be sure it fits over all your winter gear)
______ belay device
______ rock shoes
______ chalk bag
______ cleaning tool
_X____ ice axe
______ ice tool(s)
_X____ crampons (adjusted to fit boots before you leave town)
______ extra webbing for rappel anchors
______ hardware store quicklink for rappel anchors
______ rescue pulley
______ regular carabiners (# ____ )
______ locking carabiners (# ____ )
______ 2 prusik loops
______ snowshoes
______ skis with climbing skins
______ picket(s) (# ____ )
______ ice screw(s) (# ____ )
______ double runners (# ____ ) [tied 1" webbing runners work as extra rappel anchors]